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槽头肉成为央视315主角时,另一个顶流肉食也是祸从天降:淀粉肠塌房成了中文社交媒体热点。
有趣的是,没过几天,淀粉肠似乎要被一些科普大V们拯救了,而这一切的焦点都在
鸡骨泥。
淀粉肠被质疑是因为央广网一篇报道称一些淀粉肠用骨泥制作,在该报道中,记者询问得知骨泥用于做宠物食品,不适合人吃。而这两天,一些科普辟谣文章则称鸡骨泥可以用于食品,“鸡骨泥这类肉糜类产品含有蛋白质、脂肪、矿物质(尤其是钙和磷)”。说得就差鼓励大家都去买点骨泥补补了。
淀粉肠的报道以及随之而来的汹涌舆情确实有不全面(指报道)与过激(指舆情)。例如报道没有明确哪些淀粉肠厂家在用骨泥,给人的印象这似乎是行业普遍现象,这本应有更详尽的证据。至于说骨泥人不能吃,也没有给出相关法规或科学上的依据。这种缺陷报道引发的舆情,自然也变得情绪多于理性。
但宣称骨泥用于食品没问题,还说里面有蛋白质、矿物质,也极为片面。用鸡骨泥做淀粉肠有诸多应该质疑的地方,怎能如此洗地?
其一,报道中提到的骨泥到底是什么,是否属于能用于食品的类型,还真不好说。说骨泥可以用于食用,是基于
机械分离肉,mechanically seperated meat(MSM,也有不同缩写MRM和MDM)。像网上大V说骨泥可食用,参考的也是机械分离肉相关资料。
机械分离肉是指通过高压等技术手段,将家畜家禽等屠宰后剩下的骨架上残余的肉类分离出来,形成的糜状肉类产品。可机械分离肉有明确的规定,例如在美国FDA的标准里,机械分离肉必须是骨固体含量低于1%。报道中的骨泥,出自一位淀粉肠生成厂家工作人员的透露。
这位工作人员说的骨泥可未必是食品加工里符合标准的机械分离肉!
机械分离肉是从骨头上搞出肉来,和骨泥一词很贴合。但作为一种肉类产品,机械分离肉只有符合特定标准才能这么称呼。报道里的骨泥可能和机械分离肉外观类似,不一定就是后者,完全有可能是不符合机械分离肉标准的骨头泥。因此,不能将淀粉肠里用到的骨泥,默认为只是用了机械分离肉而已。
其二,
机械分离肉的钙不是营养物质。网上有专家用这样一张表格描述鸡骨泥营养成分:
老百姓一看,骨泥不仅比猪肉低脂低糖,还比牛奶高蛋白高钙,简直是大补啊。
可机械分离肉里的钙不是营养物质!说骨泥有包括钙、磷在内的矿物质貌似准确,实则误导。
机械分离肉里多出来的钙来源只有一个:骨头。钙含量高说明在把肉从骨头上“剥离”出来时,带入了大量骨头。动物骨头里的钙是溶解度很低的无机盐沉淀,人体根本吸收不了。实际上,机械分离肉的标准是骨含量必须低于一定的值,一个检测方法就是
钙含量要低。
前述提到的FDA标准,成熟家鸡来源的机械分离肉,钙含量不能高于0.235%。而上表里的鸡骨泥,钙含量每千克6.6克,是0.66%,都超标了,倒还真是
骨头泥。
机械分离肉是要将肉取出来,不能把带上骨头说是多了矿物质。这也是为什么贸然将骨泥等同于机械分离肉有问题,因为咱根本不知道厂商用的是否是机械分离肉。
其三,机械分离肉使用有诸多规定,不能因为有用于食品行业就扩展为使用没问题。像前面提到的,机械分离肉本身就有生产标准,必须得是肉,不能真成骨头泥。除此之外,正经机械分离肉也有使用规定,例如按照欧美都规定
机械分离肉必须注明,不能简单说是鸡肉、猪肉等名字。
而为骨泥正名的一些文章描述骨泥时都提到肉糜,老百姓看了还以为因为外观类似,骨泥也能叫肉糜。如果参考欧美的法规,肉糜对应的应该是ground meat,机械分离肉恰恰绝对不被允许叫做ground meat。
国内的机械分离肉标准里出现了肉糜字样:
但同一个文件里也明确说了在食品包装时
必须注明机械分离和畜禽种类,如机械分离鸡肉,机械分离猪肉。可见称肉糜有误导嫌疑。毕竟中国老百姓说到肉糜,想到的大概率会是晋惠帝的何不食肉糜。将机械分离肉或是都不知道是啥标准做出来的骨泥,和肉糜等同,老百姓搞不好还以为这是皇帝吃的高档货了。
顺便说一下,2022年开始执行的《机械分离肉标准》GB/T 40463-2021,起草单位第一位是双汇,动物疫病预防控制中心是排在第二位,11个起草单位里6个是食品行业公司。不禁让人想到那句名言:一流企业做标准;二流企业做品牌;三流企业做产品;四流企业打价格。中国食品行业一流企业看来真不少。
我不太清楚国内所谓淀粉肠如何标注成分,可是成分表里写鸡骨泥已经超出我想象,写机械分离鸡肉、机械分离猪肉等的可能性更是微乎其微。除非央广网的记者或那位透露信息的工作人员都是胡说八道,淀粉肠相关新闻至少透露出一个信息:
有一些淀粉肠的原料标注有问题,不实。
当然,这可能只是极少数淀粉肠厂家,但这仍是值得相关部门注意,公众也有权知晓。连是否是合格的机械分离肉都难以确定的情况下,说什么无毒无害,有蛋白质、钙、磷,这不是瞎扯蛋吗?
实际上机械分离肉用于食用在生产过程中有严格的卫生要求,有些肉还不能用于食用的机械分离肉,比如由于疯牛病的威胁,美国
禁止机械分离牛肉进入食用。鸡和猪也不是每个部位都被允许制作机械分离肉,像鸡头、鸡脖等都不能用。
在用途上,机械分离肉可以用于热狗、肉丸子等,但美国这里牛肉汉堡不允许用机械分离肉。至于有些专家说的用机械分离肉增加风味,用于营养添加,我只能说,我不是专家,只是,无论啥用途,切割肉类做肉糜都没有理由劣于机械分离肉,用后者的唯一原因就是两个字:
便宜。
确实如一些专家说的,机械分离肉可以食用。但消费者绝对有权知道自己买的淀粉肠里到底有没有肉,以及用了什么肉。
例如我最近买的牛肉肠,成分表里清楚写着牛肉:
包装上也明确声明不用边角料(by-product):
试想,如果我们对骨泥制作淀粉肠的态度是其实也可以吃的纵容,
不细究用的骨泥是否真属于机械分离肉,以及食品标注是否合规,那么万一还是有用料老实的食品企业,它们怎么过日子?长期以往,搞不好我们就真要吃骨头泥做的淀粉肠了。
也正因此,淀粉肠最初的报道虽有瑕疵,但也不该如此为淀粉肠洗地。
参考资料:
https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-1995-11-03/pdf/95-27305.pdf#page=1
https://ask.usda.gov/s/article/Is-ground-poultry-the-same-as-mechanically-separated-poultry
http://c.gb688.cn/bzgk/gb/showGb?type=online&hcno=0DE037553FAD577CAB47FEA7321AAB30
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#1e1e1e;--weui-BG-2: #191919;--weui-BG-3: #202020;--weui-BG-4: #404040;--weui-BG-5: #2c2c2c;--weui-FG-0: rgba(255, 255, 255, .85);--weui-FG-HALF: rgba(255, 255, 255, .65);--weui-FG-1: rgba(255, 255, 255, .55);--weui-FG-2: rgba(255, 255, 255, .35);--weui-FG-3: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-FG-4: rgba(255, 255, 255, .15);--weui-FG-5: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-RED: #fa5151;--weui-ORANGERED: #ff6146;--weui-ORANGE: #c87d2f;--weui-YELLOW: #cc9c00;--weui-GREEN: #74a800;--weui-LIGHTGREEN: #3eb575;--weui-BRAND: #07c160;--weui-BLUE: #10aeff;--weui-INDIGO: #1196ff;--weui-PURPLE: #8183ff;--weui-WHITE: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-LINK: #7d90a9;--weui-TEXTGREEN: #259c5c;--weui-FG: #fff;--weui-BG: #000;--weui-TAG-TEXT-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .05)}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) .wx-root,body:not(.pages_skin_pc) body{--appmsgExtra-BG: #F7F7F7}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) .wx-root[data-weui-theme=dark],body:not(.pages_skin_pc) body[data-weui-theme=dark]{--weui-BG-0: #111;--weui-BG-1: #1e1e1e;--weui-BG-2: #191919;--weui-BG-3: #202020;--weui-BG-4: #404040;--weui-BG-5: #2c2c2c;--weui-FG-0: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-FG-HALF: rgba(255, 255, 255, .6);--weui-FG-1: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-FG-2: rgba(255, 255, 255, .3);--weui-FG-3: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-FG-4: rgba(255, 255, 255, .15);--weui-FG-5: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-RED: #fa5151;--weui-ORANGERED: #ff6146;--weui-ORANGE: #c87d2f;--weui-YELLOW: #cc9c00;--weui-GREEN: #74a800;--weui-LIGHTGREEN: #3eb575;--weui-BRAND: #07c160;--weui-BLUE: #10aeff;--weui-INDIGO: #1196ff;--weui-PURPLE: #8183ff;--weui-WHITE: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-LINK: #7d90a9;--weui-TEXTGREEN: #259c5c;--weui-FG: #fff;--weui-BG: #000;--weui-TAG-TEXT-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .05)}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) .wx-root[data-weui-theme=dark],body:not(.pages_skin_pc) body[data-weui-theme=dark]{--appmsgExtra-BG: #121212}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px){body:not(.pages_skin_pc)body:not(.pages_skin_pc){background:var(--weui-BG-2)}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px) and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) .wx-root[data-weui-mode=care]:not([data-weui-theme=light]),body:not(.pages_skin_pc) body[data-weui-mode=care]:not([data-weui-theme=light]){--weui-BG-0: #111;--weui-BG-1: #1e1e1e;--weui-BG-2: #191919;--weui-BG-3: #202020;--weui-BG-4: #404040;--weui-BG-5: #2c2c2c;--weui-FG-0: rgba(255, 255, 255, .85);--weui-FG-HALF: rgba(255, 255, 255, .65);--weui-FG-1: rgba(255, 255, 255, .55);--weui-FG-2: rgba(255, 255, 255, .35);--weui-FG-3: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-FG-4: rgba(255, 255, 255, .15);--weui-FG-5: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-RED: #fa5151;--weui-ORANGERED: #ff6146;--weui-ORANGE: #c87d2f;--weui-YELLOW: #cc9c00;--weui-GREEN: #74a800;--weui-LIGHTGREEN: #3eb575;--weui-BRAND: #07c160;--weui-BLUE: #10aeff;--weui-INDIGO: #1196ff;--weui-PURPLE: #8183ff;--weui-WHITE: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-LINK: #7d90a9;--weui-TEXTGREEN: #259c5c;--weui-FG: #fff;--weui-BG: #000;--weui-TAG-TEXT-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .05)}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px) and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) .wx-root:not([data-weui-theme=light]),body:not(.pages_skin_pc) body:not([data-weui-theme=light]){--weui-BG-0: #111;--weui-BG-1: #1e1e1e;--weui-BG-2: #191919;--weui-BG-3: #202020;--weui-BG-4: #404040;--weui-BG-5: #2c2c2c;--weui-FG-0: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-FG-HALF: rgba(255, 255, 255, .6);--weui-FG-1: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-FG-2: rgba(255, 255, 255, .3);--weui-FG-3: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-FG-4: rgba(255, 255, 255, .15);--weui-FG-5: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-RED: #fa5151;--weui-ORANGERED: #ff6146;--weui-ORANGE: #c87d2f;--weui-YELLOW: #cc9c00;--weui-GREEN: #74a800;--weui-LIGHTGREEN: #3eb575;--weui-BRAND: #07c160;--weui-BLUE: #10aeff;--weui-INDIGO: #1196ff;--weui-PURPLE: #8183ff;--weui-WHITE: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-LINK: #7d90a9;--weui-TEXTGREEN: #259c5c;--weui-FG: #fff;--weui-BG: #000;--weui-TAG-TEXT-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .05)}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px) and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) 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59, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .05)}}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){.wx-root:not([data-weui-theme=light]),body:not([data-weui-theme=light]){--discussInput-BG: rgba(255, 255, 255, .03)}}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){.wx-root:not([data-weui-theme=light]),body:not([data-weui-theme=light]){--nickName-FG: #959595}}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){.wx-root:not([data-weui-theme=light]),body:not([data-weui-theme=light]){--weui-BG-0: #111;--weui-BG-1: #1e1e1e;--weui-BG-2: #191919;--weui-BG-3: #202020;--weui-BG-4: #404040;--weui-BG-5: #2c2c2c;--weui-FG-0: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-FG-HALF: rgba(255, 255, 255, .6);--weui-FG-1: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-FG-2: rgba(255, 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.05)}}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){.wx-root:not([data-weui-theme=light]),body:not([data-weui-theme=light]){--appmsgExtra-BG: #121212}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) :root{--appmsgPageGap: 20px;--appmsgPageBottomGap: 40px}}:root{--articleFontsize: 17px}:root{--sab: env(safe-area-inset-bottom)}:root{--wxBorderAvatarRatio: 3}:root{--discussPageGap: 20px}:root{--immersive-safe-bottom: env(safe-area-inset-bottom)}:root{--appmsgPageGap: 20px;--appmsgPageBottomGap: 40px}*{margin:0;padding:0}.rich_media_content *{max-width:100%!important;box-sizing:border-box!important;-webkit-box-sizing:border-box!important;word-wrap:break-word!important}.rich_media_content p{clear:both;min-height:1em}td p{margin:0;padding:0}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){body:not([data-weui-theme=light]) .rich_media_content img:not(.wx_img_placeholder){filter:brightness(.8)}}
div.autoTypeSetting24psection > p,div.autoTypeSetting24psection > section{margin-bottom: 24px;}