最近几天，淀粉肠频繁出现在热搜上。
起因是3月15日，有媒体发文表示，淀粉肠里不光有淀粉，还有肉，而这种肉，主要是鸡肉和鸡骨泥。媒体调查还发现，目前出售鸡骨泥的多是宠物食品商家，而商家表示骨泥不建议人吃。
图源：图虫创意
同时网络上也出现越来越多关于骨泥的说法，诸如“吃剩的骨头、屠宰场的边角料等，都可以做骨泥。”这让网友们纷纷破防，觉得被淀粉肠“背刺”了。毕竟淀粉肠一直是很多人喜爱的零食。
大到工厂企业，小到路边摊，也都受到影响，卖淀粉肠似乎一夜之间变成夕阳行业。
那么，骨泥到底是怎么做的？能不能给人吃？
骨泥是什么？
网友对淀粉肠里骨泥的担忧，主要在于制作骨泥的原料和工序，是否卫生、安全。
网络上一则传播很广的视频显示，在卫生条件极差的环境下，将未做处理的鸡直接扔进机器里，羽毛、内脏、骨头等等混在一起，出来之后就变成看不出成分的骨泥。
不排除有些工厂和企业是在这种情况下制作骨泥，但也不应以偏概全，使得有些良心企业遭受不白之冤，也使得骨泥被污名化。
那么，骨泥到底是什么？
上海市食品安全研究会专家组成员刘少伟向壹读介绍，有一个与骨泥接近且正式的专业名词“机械分离肉”，指的是畜禽类的带肉骨骼，通过机械分离工艺，生产出来的肉糜类产品。
国家标准GB/T 40463-2021《机械分离肉》规定了机械分离肉（俗称“肉糜”）的产品组成。鸡骨加工而来的“鸡肉糜”，蛋白含量不低于12%，脂肪不超过20%，骨渣含量不超过0.15%，而骨渣颗粒不超过3毫米。而以猪骨为主要原料的“猪肉糜”，蛋白含量不低于14%，脂肪不超过30%，骨渣含量则多达3%，骨渣颗粒最长仅有0.85毫米。
图源：GB/T 40463-2021《机械分离肉》
食品工程博士云无心对壹读表示，骨泥跟“机械分离肉”的组成差别，在于骨渣含量的不同。鸡肉糜中只留下了很少的骨渣，而鸡骨泥中则保留了所有的骨渣。
同时，国家标准GB/T 40463-2021《机械分离肉》也规定了，带肉骨骼应来源于检疫、检验合格的畜禽酮体或分割产品。对此，《食品安全法》第三十四条第八款也有同样的规定，禁止生产未按规定进行检疫或者检疫不合格的肉类，或者未经检验或者检验不合格的肉类制品。
除了鸡鸭和猪，牛羊、驴、鱼甚至青蛙，只要检疫、检验合格，很多动物骨头都可以用来做骨泥。科信食品与健康信息交流中心副主任、副研究馆员阮光锋对壹读表示，这要根据骨头的产量、本身的特点、产品的需求等等综合考虑，理论上只要想用，都可以用来做成不同用途的骨泥。
阮光锋介绍，我国动物养殖成本较高，饲料高度依赖进口，将骨泥利用起来，对于整体的食物供应和粮食安全来说，都非常重要，并且还能满足这么多人的吃肉需求。目前骨泥的来源，更多是猪牛羊鸡，因为这几种动物产量多，骨头量也多，在养殖、屠宰工厂里通常会剩下大量的骨头，为了避免浪费，就将其作为原料继续加工。
而且，刘少伟提到，骨泥理论上价格应该比鸡肉便宜。
而骨泥是怎么制作的呢？
云无心介绍，鸡骨泥的制作有冷加工和热加工两种工艺。
冷加工工艺，是将鲜骨挑选、清洗、尽可能剔除肉，然后冷冻，再切碎、经过粗磨和细磨，最后成为泥状。冷加工工艺要求全程冷链，粉碎研磨过程中还需要加冰降温。
热加工工艺，则是把鲜骨进行高压洗涤、高压蒸煮、破碎、粗磨、细磨，甚至可能进行酶解，然后得到骨泥。
骨泥的用处
云无心表示，骨泥加工的工艺要求较高，如果控温不好，就可能导致产品长菌腐坏。
满足食品标准的骨泥，可以作为食品原料，但对于设备和操作都有更高的要求。如果达不到食品级要求，只是执行“饲料标准”，那么得到的产品就不能给人吃，而只能作为饲料。
而传统观念认为，骨头是没什么用的“边角料”“下脚料”“废料”，但实际上，骨泥作为一种动物食品资源，在食品加工中起着很大的作用。
除了淀粉肠，市面上还有不少食品也是骨泥制成的，如肉丸、肉松和肉脯；还有将骨泥作为营养强化剂添加到糕点和饼干中，制成软糖、汤圆、富钙骨泥膨化营养米果等等；也可以添加适当的蔬菜、香辛料搅拌成馅，制成速冻包子、饺子、烧卖等食品；此外，一些品类的调味料、罐头、营养挂面等的制作，都可能用到骨泥。
骨泥系列食品之所以能够存在，源于骨泥具有相当的营养价值。
骨泥不仅充分利用了骨上附着的肉，还包括骨头中的胶原蛋白、钙以及骨髓中对人体有益的软骨素、磷脂质、丰富的氨基酸和多种人体必需维生素及微量元素。而且骨头本身就是羟基磷酸钙，磨成泥之后也能被人体吸收一部分。
2005年《肉类工业》上发表的《鸡骨泥的营养价值及其食品加工技术》论文，其中给出了一组鸡骨泥与猪肉、牛奶和大米的主要营养成分对比，鸡骨泥中的钙、磷含量都高于猪肉、牛奶和大米。论文表明，鸡骨泥中的钙磷比约为2∶1，是人体吸收钙、磷的最佳比例，可以说补钙效果比牛奶还要好。
图源：微博@云无心45；参考资料[1]
此外，鸡骨泥中蛋白质含量较高，脂肪含量较低，属于一种典型的高营养低热能食品。因此，鸡骨泥不仅适用于因缺钙而引起的病症, 而且还因为胆固醇含量较低，适宜高血压、心脏病患者食用。
总之，骨泥不仅可替代肉食或作为营养剂添加到肉制品、仿肉制品或肉味食品中，还提供了一条有效的补钙捷径。
而国内外对于动物骨头食品的开发利用，并不局限于骨泥，还有骨粉、骨素、骨胶、骨肽等等。
图源：参考资料[2]
骨粉可以添加到食品中，制成骨粉饼干、挂面等骨食品，也可制成保健品，如骨髓壮骨粉、骨精及各种钙制剂等；骨素则被广泛应用于方便面调味包、火锅底料及肉制品等产品的生产中，并作为肉类调料和香精生产的原料。
正如阮光锋所说，动物骨头就是一种十分常见的食品原料，应用非常广泛，无论是淀粉肠，还是骨泥做的调味料，只要生产符合国家标准，安全性其实并没有问题。
参考资料
[1] 高翔江. 鸡骨泥的营养价值及其食品加工技术[J]. 肉类工业, 2005, (08): 16-17.
[2] 刘玉德. 动物鲜骨的开发利用[J]. 食品科学,2000(02):37-39.
[3] 张露娟. 畜禽骨的综合利用研究现状与发展趋势[J]. 现代食品, 2021, (03): 86-90+94.
[4] 云无心45. 淀粉肠“塌房”了？来聊聊淀粉肠的三个核心问题.
：林秋锦
：陈
燕妮
值班：敏敏
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