| 杨阳 来源 | 顶尖广告
这两天刷到一个段子：
每天从串串房醒来，喝一杯勾兑豆浆、吃一个淋巴肉包子去上班，中午吃一份预制外卖，下午一杯脂肪末糖精小甜水，晚上下班点一份地沟油麻辣烫，出门溜达一圈，再吃个骨泥制作到淀粉肠，回到家盖上黑心棉睡觉，周天再吃份激素牛蛙犒劳自己，再喝上一杯消毒剂兑到热水。
这是你315后上班的模样吗？
▲ 图源：老王纪录片传奇
315最大受害者不是被曝的商家，而是我们。
穷人淀粉肠、中产扣肉、富人听花酒、大学生奶茶，每一个品怨种人生的我们都躲不过。
其中最让网友破防的恐怕是淀粉肠：我都吃淀粉肠，你放什么肉啊？
但央广网说，淀粉肠居然竟然还有肉，掺有鸡脖泥、鸡架泥等边角料。
咱也不能一竿子打翻一船人，不是所有淀粉肠都不好，部分原因是淀粉肠给人一种只有品类无品牌的刻板印象。
这不，淀粉肠事件又疑似反转了？
专家说“鸡骨泥用于淀粉肠不算违规”，网友辟谣淀粉肠没上315，全网开始欢迎“肠妃回宫”。
这个辟谣看似反转，但有些问题还是无解。
唯一看到的是315晚会后，淀粉肠“肠”尾效应发酵，有人直播喊冤，有网红突然翻红：
卖淀粉肠的大娘出摊2小时无人问津。
▲ 图源：晨视频
网友自爆刚入手淀粉肠烤肠机创业，结果还没开始就结束了。
▲ 图源：晨视频
淀粉肠小王子和淀粉肠企业董事长直播吃肠，用行动呼吁理性看待。
▲ 图源：国十社群往年/白鹿视频
说到底最应买单的是无良商家，与其等别人来救，不如自救，自制淀粉肠。
说到自制淀粉肠这话题，就不得不提中国最毁三观的网红、全网最会造假打假的博主——辛吉飞。
前2年辛吉飞因为用“科技狠活”自制淀粉肠、奶茶出圈，没想到这两天因为315再度翻红。
辛吉飞曾辟谣“淀粉肠但凡有一点肉我都不爱吃”的说法，表示淀粉肠肯定含有肉。
理由是纯淀粉做不了香肠，小厂家会加鸡皮鸭皮猪皮等，加点调料加点色素一混就能整肠；支招选肉肠要看配料表，每百克达到12克以上。
▲ 图源：抖音@辛吉飞生活
除了科普，飞哥还试过亲自下场做肉肠，淀粉肠里的科技狠活有多狠。
加点小麦蛋白粉、变性淀粉、植物油、香辛料、大红色素......倒入料理机榨成酱料后就可以“灌肠”。
▲ 图源：抖音@会飞的辛吉
淀粉肠事件后，有人就在重温辛吉飞做这段淀粉肠的视频。
▲ 图源：江湖李辅
而辛吉飞也接住流量，再次讨论淀粉肠，提到骨泥这原料不局限于淀粉肠，还有甜不辣、火锅丸子，商家经常卖出不低于8块钱一斤的价格，不可能放很多优质肉。
▲ 图源：辛吉飞直播甄选
飞哥还不忘为自己“被扣上制造焦虑帽子”喊冤，喊话冤枉自己的网友要道歉，把自己的贡献打在公屏上。
不排除辛吉飞这波发声，是蹭315节点热度，毕竟他在自家账号还置顶淀粉肠，还出了梅菜扣肉主题的探店视频。
▲ 图源：辛吉飞生活/辛吉飞
但辛吉飞还是赢得网友的围观，在线问飞哥安井和其它品牌丸子究竟能不能吃，有的为飞哥贴上英雄光环......让淡出大众视野的辛吉飞再次出圈。
将辛吉飞成为民族英雄确实过了，但不可否认辛吉飞2022年确实凭借“狠活”引起互联网热议。
他身上被贴的标签很多：绝命毒师、炼金术师、餐饮界公敌。
辛吉飞经厨师、调料专家等定位摸索后，将自己定位为“科技美食博主”，用科技狠活“公然造假”，加上歪嘴风讲解，带火“海克斯科技”概念。
海克斯科技，是网友借鉴英雄联盟的游戏造的概念，套用在辛吉飞身上，指“科技美食：在制作美食的过程中，无需用上真材实料，只需加入各种添加剂，就能做出色香味俱全的美食。
▲ 图源：飞哥科技与生活
这操作看起来很毁三观，但不得不说网友也因此知道“高科技美食”的猫腻，发现原来奶茶里没有奶，牛肉干里没牛肉、鸡排里没鸡肉：
芋泥奶茶：一勺葡萄糖浆+一勺氯化剂+一滴紫署香精油+破壁机搅拌
羊汤：一勺三花淡奶
合成牛肉干：冷冻鸡肉+烤肉精油+焦糖色素
辛吉飞靠曝光行业内幕了，30天涨粉600多万，让不少人戒掉外卖，但这些也存在争议，有人拍手叫好，有人反手举报。
枪打枝头鸟，辛吉飞被大量用户举报，被抖音警告。
没想到辛吉飞狠起来连自己都整顿，一怒之下把抖音账号注销。
辛吉飞不仅让抖音害怕，也让品牌汗流浃背，比如海天和汇源。
只因为辛吉飞发过一个合成酱油视频，用食用盐、味精、呈味核苷酸二钠等原料，整出没黄豆的酱油，还将合成酱油跟某常用酱油对比，发现自己的更浓鲜。
▲ 图源：乌鸦校尉
一顿操作猛如虎，一看原料二百五，网友傻眼。虽然飞哥挡住酱油品牌，但挡不住网友八卦的心，扒出被作对比的是海天。
结果海天又被扒出双标，再加上公关不给力，成为众矢之的。
▲ 图源：微博网友
如果说辛吉飞用一句话把海天拉下神坛，那么他也用一句话救活汇源果汁。
辛吉飞曾评价汇源果汁之所以苦，是因为它本身就是水果做的，不含科技些狠活，引发网友冲进汇源果汁直播间野性消费。
▲ 图源：厨房人类
这一次淀粉肠舆论带火辛吉飞，看似离谱，离不开辛吉飞给人留下深刻的“狠活”标签，同样离不开社会情绪。
其一，网友遇到社会不公，有抒发情绪的情感需求。
商家或品牌每每被爆食品安全或者其他危机，网友觉得自己被背刺、被割韭菜，情绪上头了，就想找一个情绪出口。
这时候除了敲敲键盘，就是寄托于其他人仗义出手，将对“替天行道”的期许投射在民间判官身上。
好比当初“地铁判官”事件，大爷大妈占座而产生争执，地铁判官听到大爷要占10个座的发言，直接送上一巴掌。
▲ 图源：三联生活周刊
大家苦于座霸座久矣，看到有人站出来，忍不住拍手叫好。
地铁判官和辛吉飞就像网友们手替嘴替，填补当下社会无法管制的灰色地带，满足网友用魔法打败魔法，对于不公审判进行发泄的需求。
其二，淀粉肠提供的不只是充饥的产品价值，还有感受烟火气的情绪价值。
卖淀粉肠的摆摊商贩们，就跟被清华北大盯上的鹅腿阿姨一样，是城市中不可缺少的烟火气。
对于打工人和学生来说，不能没有淀粉肠，就像西方没有耶路撒冷。
几块钱一根的淀粉肠，是学生放学的零食，是打工人下班充饥的灵魂小吃。
▲ 图源：AI制图
当你奔向烤肠摊吃上一根淀粉肠后，在调料的香气中，感觉疲惫的心被治愈收获慰藉。
其三，辛吉飞立了一个“造假打假”的矛盾人设。
辛吉飞是通过造假打假的形式，向观众揭秘食品行业内幕。
这样的人设极具冲突性，能够调动起观众被坑被情绪，进而引起大家的集体共鸣，讨论带来的流量是毋庸置疑的。
无论如何大家还是要理性看待，正如并非辛吉飞点头的好产品，就没毛病；摇头的产品，就是有问题一样；
情怀固然不是劣质食品的遮羞布，但也不能让黑心厂家的操作，抹黑其他认真做事的企业。
*编排 |
阿辉 审核 | 日尧
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#1e1e1e;--weui-BG-2: #191919;--weui-BG-3: #202020;--weui-BG-4: #404040;--weui-BG-5: #2c2c2c;--weui-FG-0: rgba(255, 255, 255, .85);--weui-FG-HALF: rgba(255, 255, 255, .65);--weui-FG-1: rgba(255, 255, 255, .55);--weui-FG-2: rgba(255, 255, 255, .35);--weui-FG-3: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-FG-4: rgba(255, 255, 255, .15);--weui-FG-5: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-RED: #fa5151;--weui-ORANGERED: #ff6146;--weui-ORANGE: #c87d2f;--weui-YELLOW: #cc9c00;--weui-GREEN: #74a800;--weui-LIGHTGREEN: #3eb575;--weui-BRAND: #07c160;--weui-BLUE: #10aeff;--weui-INDIGO: #1196ff;--weui-PURPLE: #8183ff;--weui-WHITE: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-LINK: #7d90a9;--weui-TEXTGREEN: #259c5c;--weui-FG: #fff;--weui-BG: #000;--weui-TAG-TEXT-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .05)}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) .wx-root,body:not(.pages_skin_pc) body{--appmsgExtra-BG: #F7F7F7}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) .wx-root[data-weui-theme=dark],body:not(.pages_skin_pc) body[data-weui-theme=dark]{--weui-BG-0: #111;--weui-BG-1: #1e1e1e;--weui-BG-2: #191919;--weui-BG-3: #202020;--weui-BG-4: #404040;--weui-BG-5: #2c2c2c;--weui-FG-0: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-FG-HALF: rgba(255, 255, 255, .6);--weui-FG-1: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-FG-2: rgba(255, 255, 255, .3);--weui-FG-3: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-FG-4: rgba(255, 255, 255, .15);--weui-FG-5: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-RED: #fa5151;--weui-ORANGERED: #ff6146;--weui-ORANGE: #c87d2f;--weui-YELLOW: #cc9c00;--weui-GREEN: #74a800;--weui-LIGHTGREEN: #3eb575;--weui-BRAND: #07c160;--weui-BLUE: #10aeff;--weui-INDIGO: #1196ff;--weui-PURPLE: #8183ff;--weui-WHITE: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-LINK: #7d90a9;--weui-TEXTGREEN: #259c5c;--weui-FG: #fff;--weui-BG: #000;--weui-TAG-TEXT-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .05)}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) .wx-root[data-weui-theme=dark],body:not(.pages_skin_pc) body[data-weui-theme=dark]{--appmsgExtra-BG: #121212}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px){body:not(.pages_skin_pc)body:not(.pages_skin_pc){background:var(--weui-BG-2)}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px) and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) .wx-root[data-weui-mode=care]:not([data-weui-theme=light]),body:not(.pages_skin_pc) body[data-weui-mode=care]:not([data-weui-theme=light]){--weui-BG-0: #111;--weui-BG-1: #1e1e1e;--weui-BG-2: #191919;--weui-BG-3: #202020;--weui-BG-4: #404040;--weui-BG-5: #2c2c2c;--weui-FG-0: rgba(255, 255, 255, .85);--weui-FG-HALF: rgba(255, 255, 255, .65);--weui-FG-1: rgba(255, 255, 255, .55);--weui-FG-2: rgba(255, 255, 255, .35);--weui-FG-3: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-FG-4: rgba(255, 255, 255, .15);--weui-FG-5: rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-RED: #fa5151;--weui-ORANGERED: #ff6146;--weui-ORANGE: #c87d2f;--weui-YELLOW: #cc9c00;--weui-GREEN: #74a800;--weui-LIGHTGREEN: #3eb575;--weui-BRAND: #07c160;--weui-BLUE: #10aeff;--weui-INDIGO: #1196ff;--weui-PURPLE: #8183ff;--weui-WHITE: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-LINK: #7d90a9;--weui-TEXTGREEN: #259c5c;--weui-FG: #fff;--weui-BG: #000;--weui-TAG-TEXT-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, 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rgba(255, 255, 255, .1);--weui-RED: #fa5151;--weui-ORANGERED: #ff6146;--weui-ORANGE: #c87d2f;--weui-YELLOW: #cc9c00;--weui-GREEN: #74a800;--weui-LIGHTGREEN: #3eb575;--weui-BRAND: #07c160;--weui-BLUE: #10aeff;--weui-INDIGO: #1196ff;--weui-PURPLE: #8183ff;--weui-WHITE: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-LINK: #7d90a9;--weui-TEXTGREEN: #259c5c;--weui-FG: #fff;--weui-BG: #000;--weui-TAG-TEXT-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-RED: rgba(250, 81, 81, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .05)}}@media screen and (min-width:1024px) and (prefers-color-scheme:dark){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) 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59, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-ORANGE: rgba(250, 157, 59, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-GREEN: rgba(6, 174, 86, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .6);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLUE: rgba(16, 174, 255, .1);--weui-TAG-TEXT-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-TAG-BACKGROUND-BLACK: rgba(255, 255, 255, .05)}}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){.wx-root:not([data-weui-theme=light]),body:not([data-weui-theme=light]){--discussInput-BG: rgba(255, 255, 255, .03)}}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){.wx-root:not([data-weui-theme=light]),body:not([data-weui-theme=light]){--nickName-FG: #959595}}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){.wx-root:not([data-weui-theme=light]),body:not([data-weui-theme=light]){--weui-BG-0: #111;--weui-BG-1: #1e1e1e;--weui-BG-2: #191919;--weui-BG-3: #202020;--weui-BG-4: #404040;--weui-BG-5: #2c2c2c;--weui-FG-0: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8);--weui-FG-HALF: rgba(255, 255, 255, .6);--weui-FG-1: rgba(255, 255, 255, .5);--weui-FG-2: rgba(255, 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blockquote,body:not([data-weui-theme=light]) .blockquote_info{color:#ffffff4d}}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){body:not([data-weui-theme=light]) blockquote{border-color:#404040}}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){body:not([data-weui-theme=light]) blockquote{border-color:#404040}}.data_color_scheme_dark .rich_media_meta_text,.data_color_scheme_dark .icon_appmsg_tag.default,.data_color_scheme_dark .reward_area_win .reward_user_tips .weui-loadmore__tips a,.data_color_scheme_dark .simple_pagination,.data_color_scheme_dark .sp_page_current,.data_color_scheme_dark blockquote,.data_color_scheme_dark .blockquote_info{color:#ffffff4d}.data_color_scheme_dark blockquote{border-color:#404040}@media screen and (min-width:1024px){body:not(.pages_skin_pc) :root{--appmsgPageGap: 20px;--appmsgPageBottomGap: 40px}}:root{--articleFontsize: 17px}:root{--sab: env(safe-area-inset-bottom)}:root{--wxBorderAvatarRatio: 3}:root{--discussPageGap: 20px}:root{--immersive-safe-bottom: 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div.autoTypeSetting24psection > p,div.autoTypeSetting24psection > section{margin-bottom: 24px;}
