最近，天水麻辣烫火了，许多人为了尝上一口正宗的天水味道，搭上了开往西北的列车，不惜在店门口排上十个小时的队。
素来被视为路边摊美食的麻辣烫，摇身一变成为一碗难求的顶流食材。在天水麻辣烫爆火之前，没人能想到，诸如
“前调是辣椒的香味，中调是菜的味道，尾调有点麻”的美食鉴赏语言，有一天会被用在它身上。
（图源/微博@天水事儿）
事实上，麻辣烫在美食界的地位一直被低估了。
作为一种发源于劳动人民生活、统一全国人民审美的朴素美食，麻辣烫拥有着让所有人都鬼使神差地说出“我们家那的麻辣烫才最正宗”的魔力。这些年来，经过各地的本土化改良，如今的麻辣烫江湖早已是“门派”众多，做法上，水煮、涮、蘸各有千秋，咸甜口味各不相同，就连红油的配料、汤汁的多少，也都大有讲究。
收下这份
麻辣烫食用指南，可以让你走遍全国都不怕。
1.
虽然天水麻辣烫看起来有一种辣椒不要钱的架势，但事实上，尽管红油辣子已经淹没了食物，但
其口感是香大于辣的，完全依靠辣椒的香味拉出麻辣烫的口感层次。
2.
好消息是，据天水本地人说，天水麻辣烫的灵魂是
甘谷辣椒面，只要拥有它，在家也能自制。坏消息是，目前正宗的甘谷辣椒面已经成为了紧俏货，出现了一人限购一斤的盛况。
3.
甘肃不只有天水麻辣烫，在距离天水八百公里外的张掖，当地的麻辣烫也小有名气。不过在张掖，不同店铺的麻辣烫口味有很大的差异，甜辣口、香辣口、咸辣口样样都有。
张掖麻辣烫是由铁锅熬煮而成的，味道浓郁，外观近似麻辣拌，而酱料是刷上去的。
（图源/unsplash）
4.
紧挨着甘肃的青海，麻辣烫的做法也较为独特——
辣椒要炒得焦香，刚入口时口感有些油，但胜在越吃越香，有一种在辣子中捞食物的视觉冲击。在青海，同样可以吃到类似于天水麻辣烫中的宽粉。
5.
宁夏麻辣烫也在不少人的西北记忆中留下了重要的一笔。除了传统麻辣烫外，宁夏还有一种
蘸汁麻辣烫：菜用清水或骨汤煮熟后，直接捞出端上桌，蘸着汁水吃。
6.
要论起油泼辣子，陕西人绝对不会认输。但陕西麻辣烫的灵魂
除了油泼辣子外，还有爆炸的碳水。除了陕西人，应该没有人会在麻辣烫中加入如此多种类的面条以及油条、麻花和饼了。
1.
在天水麻辣烫爆火之前，东北黏糊麻辣烫一直在江湖中立于不败之地，统领麻辣烫江湖的杨国福和张亮就起源于东北。相较于川渝地区重麻重辣的口感，东北麻辣烫具有更强的适口性。除了在口腔里爆炸的麻酱外，东北麻辣烫也有着
“狂放白糖更美味”的传说。
2.
事实上，
东北麻辣烫不只“黏糊”这一个派别，三省之间的口味也各有不同。据辽宁网友说，骨汤、奶汤、黏糊麻辣烫都是近些年的产物，最老式的沈阳麻辣烫是用鸡汤和中草药熬制而成，在出锅后撒上鸡油、芝麻、孜然、辣椒。这一吃法也颇具时代痕迹，据说是因为20世纪90年代许多家庭收入锐减，只能用熬煮鸡架的汤来涮菜，由此而演变成了麻辣烫。
（图源/微博@杨国福官方）
3.
老北京的美食，不止烤鸭、涮肉、爆肚、豆汁，麻辣烫也很有风格。老北京麻辣烫是围炉式的，也叫
地摊麻辣烫。一张大桌子上，不同口味的涮串锅依次排开，大家都围着一张桌子热热闹闹地吃，想要吃到所有菜品，就得站起来转着圈拿。
4.
接上一条，刚来北京的人常会对地摊麻辣烫的名字心生疑虑，涮串的外形、没有汤汁只有蘸料的吃法，很容易让人将其与串串香混为一谈。
5.
山西老式麻辣烫，
如果不加辣的话，看起来更像一碗汤。汤汁是肉眼可见的清澈，主食也以晶莹剔透的粉为主。许多人到了山西，都感慨自己没吃过看起来这么“素”的麻辣烫。当然，与麻辣烫相比，山西的麻辣拌、蘸串、碗坨更负盛名。
1.
芜湖麻辣烫最近也小火了一把，虽然其外观和各地的麻辣烫大致相同，但入口后却令人颇为惊艳，甜辣酱的加入，让其也获得了
“甜辣烫”的绰号。只不过现在想要去芜湖吃上一碗麻辣烫，也免不了要排队。
2.
四川省乐山市五通桥区牛华镇是麻辣烫的起源地，据说，最初是船工和纤夫创造了麻辣烫。他们在劳作之余，拿出瓦罐，舀起江水，放入野菜和花椒等调料涮而食之，麻辣烫由此而生。不过，四川麻辣烫以
重麻重辣为特色，对于饮食相对清淡的外地人而言，并不是很友好。
3.
补充上一条， 在很多人眼中，四川麻辣烫和冒菜没有区别。
（图源/unsplash）
4.
如果你想要激怒一个南昌人，那么把南昌水煮称为麻辣烫就可以了。虽然南昌水煮的烹饪过程和老北京地摊麻辣烫很相似，成品的外观也与普通麻辣烫没什么差别，
但南昌人还是坚持认为水煮是一种高于麻辣烫的食物，主要体现在水煮的菜品会长时间放在锅里煮着，十分入味，吃的时候只需要加萝卜、干葱花、辣椒即可，不像麻辣烫一样主要依赖于调料调味。
5.
接上一条，小有名气的
益阳麻辣烫，在制作流程上和南昌水煮十分相似。
6.
贵阳麻辣烫的口味颇多，既有鲜汤的
清水烫，又有特色酸汤和麻辣结合的
酸辣烫，而用
折耳根和糊辣椒秘制的蘸水，则有着浓厚的西南风味。
7.
要论麻辣烫的清淡，没有哪里能比得过广州。广州人晒麻辣烫的图片里，那乳白的汤汁和嫩绿的蔬菜，让网友忍不住锐评：
快吃吧，一会儿你那既不麻又不辣的麻辣烫连烫都不烫了。
高滔滔
遇见
宋爽
题图 微博@天水事儿
排版 Cu
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