最近,天水麻辣烫火了,许多人为了尝上一口正宗的天水味道,搭上了开往西北的列车,不惜在店门口排上十个小时的队。
素来被视为路边摊美食的麻辣烫,摇身一变成为一碗难求的顶流食材。在天水麻辣烫爆火之前,没人能想到,诸如
“前调是辣椒的香味,中调是菜的味道,尾调有点麻”的美食鉴赏语言,有一天会被用在它身上。
(图源/微博@天水事儿)
事实上,麻辣烫在美食界的地位一直被低估了。
作为一种发源于劳动人民生活、统一全国人民审美的朴素美食,麻辣烫拥有着让所有人都鬼使神差地说出“我们家那的麻辣烫才最正宗”的魔力。这些年来,经过各地的本土化改良,如今的麻辣烫江湖早已是“门派”众多,做法上,水煮、涮、蘸各有千秋,咸甜口味各不相同,就连红油的配料、汤汁的多少,也都大有讲究。
收下这份
麻辣烫食用指南,可以让你走遍全国都不怕。
1.
虽然天水麻辣烫看起来有一种辣椒不要钱的架势,但事实上,尽管红油辣子已经淹没了食物,但
其口感是香大于辣的,完全依靠辣椒的香味拉出麻辣烫的口感层次。
2.
好消息是,据天水本地人说,天水麻辣烫的灵魂是
甘谷辣椒面,只要拥有它,在家也能自制。坏消息是,目前正宗的甘谷辣椒面已经成为了紧俏货,出现了一人限购一斤的盛况。
3.
甘肃不只有天水麻辣烫,在距离天水八百公里外的张掖,当地的麻辣烫也小有名气。不过在张掖,不同店铺的麻辣烫口味有很大的差异,甜辣口、香辣口、咸辣口样样都有。
张掖麻辣烫是由铁锅熬煮而成的,味道浓郁,外观近似麻辣拌,而酱料是刷上去的。
(图源/unsplash)
4.
紧挨着甘肃的青海,麻辣烫的做法也较为独特——
辣椒要炒得焦香,刚入口时口感有些油,但胜在越吃越香,有一种在辣子中捞食物的视觉冲击。在青海,同样可以吃到类似于天水麻辣烫中的宽粉。
5.
宁夏麻辣烫也在不少人的西北记忆中留下了重要的一笔。除了传统麻辣烫外,宁夏还有一种
蘸汁麻辣烫:菜用清水或骨汤煮熟后,直接捞出端上桌,蘸着汁水吃。
6.
要论起油泼辣子,陕西人绝对不会认输。但陕西麻辣烫的灵魂
除了油泼辣子外,还有爆炸的碳水。除了陕西人,应该没有人会在麻辣烫中加入如此多种类的面条以及油条、麻花和饼了。
1.
在天水麻辣烫爆火之前,东北黏糊麻辣烫一直在江湖中立于不败之地,统领麻辣烫江湖的杨国福和张亮就起源于东北。相较于川渝地区重麻重辣的口感,东北麻辣烫具有更强的适口性。除了在口腔里爆炸的麻酱外,东北麻辣烫也有着
“狂放白糖更美味”的传说。
2.
事实上,
东北麻辣烫不只“黏糊”这一个派别,三省之间的口味也各有不同。据辽宁网友说,骨汤、奶汤、黏糊麻辣烫都是近些年的产物,最老式的沈阳麻辣烫是用鸡汤和中草药熬制而成,在出锅后撒上鸡油、芝麻、孜然、辣椒。这一吃法也颇具时代痕迹,据说是因为20世纪90年代许多家庭收入锐减,只能用熬煮鸡架的汤来涮菜,由此而演变成了麻辣烫。
(图源/微博@杨国福官方)
3.
老北京的美食,不止烤鸭、涮肉、爆肚、豆汁,麻辣烫也很有风格。老北京麻辣烫是围炉式的,也叫
地摊麻辣烫。一张大桌子上,不同口味的涮串锅依次排开,大家都围着一张桌子热热闹闹地吃,想要吃到所有菜品,就得站起来转着圈拿。
4.
接上一条,刚来北京的人常会对地摊麻辣烫的名字心生疑虑,涮串的外形、没有汤汁只有蘸料的吃法,很容易让人将其与串串香混为一谈。
5.
山西老式麻辣烫,
如果不加辣的话,看起来更像一碗汤。汤汁是肉眼可见的清澈,主食也以晶莹剔透的粉为主。许多人到了山西,都感慨自己没吃过看起来这么“素”的麻辣烫。当然,与麻辣烫相比,山西的麻辣拌、蘸串、碗坨更负盛名。
1.
芜湖麻辣烫最近也小火了一把,虽然其外观和各地的麻辣烫大致相同,但入口后却令人颇为惊艳,甜辣酱的加入,让其也获得了
“甜辣烫”的绰号。只不过现在想要去芜湖吃上一碗麻辣烫,也免不了要排队。
2.
四川省乐山市五通桥区牛华镇是麻辣烫的起源地,据说,最初是船工和纤夫创造了麻辣烫。他们在劳作之余,拿出瓦罐,舀起江水,放入野菜和花椒等调料涮而食之,麻辣烫由此而生。不过,四川麻辣烫以
重麻重辣为特色,对于饮食相对清淡的外地人而言,并不是很友好。
3.
补充上一条, 在很多人眼中,四川麻辣烫和冒菜没有区别。
(图源/unsplash)
4.
如果你想要激怒一个南昌人,那么把南昌水煮称为麻辣烫就可以了。虽然南昌水煮的烹饪过程和老北京地摊麻辣烫很相似,成品的外观也与普通麻辣烫没什么差别,
但南昌人还是坚持认为水煮是一种高于麻辣烫的食物,主要体现在水煮的菜品会长时间放在锅里煮着,十分入味,吃的时候只需要加萝卜、干葱花、辣椒即可,不像麻辣烫一样主要依赖于调料调味。
5.
接上一条,小有名气的
益阳麻辣烫,在制作流程上和南昌水煮十分相似。
6.
贵阳麻辣烫的口味颇多,既有鲜汤的
清水烫,又有特色酸汤和麻辣结合的
酸辣烫,而用
折耳根和糊辣椒秘制的蘸水,则有着浓厚的西南风味。
7.
要论麻辣烫的清淡,没有哪里能比得过广州。广州人晒麻辣烫的图片里,那乳白的汤汁和嫩绿的蔬菜,让网友忍不住锐评:
快吃吧,一会儿你那既不麻又不辣的麻辣烫连烫都不烫了。
高滔滔
遇见
宋爽
题图 微博@天水事儿
排版 Cu
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